Faces By KLM

Makeup Brush Flawless

You get up in the morning and go about your daily ritual, you're about to wash your face, you look in the mirror and you have this huge red dot with a hideous green center. To make it worse, you've stayed up all night and you have these sad, dark under eye circles that make you look like you need a long vacation. What to do?

Here is a step by step guide to help you cover that humongous crater, those dark under eye circles, and achieve a flawless face.

Step 1: Cover your Bases! (pun intended:P)

With a flat foundation brush, apply foundation or tinted moisturizer on your entire face. Use a shade that matches your skin tone perfectly or else your zit won't be the only thing on your face that's worthy of unwanted attention!

Product used: Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer in Nude

Step 2: Cover your Zit!

Using a small concealer brush, apply your concealer directly onto the pimple. If you don't have a brush, you can use your PINKY finger.:) Apply the most product onto the zit itself, then blend outward until the demarkation line between concealer and foundation is invisible.

A note on concealer SHADE: must match your skin tone, it must not be a lighter shade, contrary to common practice. This enables the concealer to blend with the rest of your makeup. A lighter shade does the opposite--it highlights that area, drawing more attention to your little hill, seeming to say "HEY LOOK AT MY HUMONGOUS ZIT!!" Pick a yellow-based concealer to counter the redness.

A note on concealer CONSISTENCY: must be heavy and thick to allow for better coverage. Cream based products offer the most coverage.

Product used: Kryolan Dermacolor

Step 3: Cover your circles!

Using a large concealer brush, apply a color corrector to the area just under your eyes. Use sparingly to avoid caking, it's easier (and wastes less) to add on products rather than having to wipe it off and re-apply. If you don't have a brush, you can use your RING finger.

As the name suggests, a color corrector is supposed to fix any discoloration problems you are having with your skin. In the case of under eye circles, purplish brown darkness appears on most Asians and Hispanics who have yellow or olive undertones, while pinkish blue darkness appears on most Caucasians and Africans who have pink undertones. A corrector cancels out the purple, blue, or green in under eye discoloration.

The right color corrector shades: Yellow olive undertones - ORANGE/PEACH corrector Pink undertones - PINK/BISQUE corrector

A note on corrector shades: It is always best to test the shade in the cosmetics counter. Do not rely on tips or what the saleslady says is "your shade." We are all unique in skin coloration, so a shade that is perfect for me may look totally off on you. Remember, TEST IT OUT BEFORE YOU SHELL OUT!

Application tip: To see where your circles are darkest, tilt your head slightly downwards then look up into the mirror. The shadows cast onto your face will bring out the darkness. Follow this line when covering up. Dab the product by patting up and down with the brush, then blend outward and sideways to eliminate any harsh lines. Use the most product on the darkest area of the circles.

Product used: Bobbi Brown Corrector in Peach

Step 4. Don't forget the inner corners of your eyes!

Darkness also finds its place there and applying concealer to this area helps brighten it up to reduce the appearance of the dark circles. Blend, blend, blend! Repeat the process on the other eye.:)

Step 5. Ready, Set, Go!

Set your foundation and concealer with powder. A pale yellow powder is best. I prefer it in loose form. Press and roll a velour powder puff onto the skin. Remember to tap off any excess and apply from the chin going upwards onto the rest of the face.

Product used: Bobbi Brown Loose Powder in Pale Yellow

All done! A flawless face in 5 easy steps! Curl your lashes, apply lipstick and you're ready to go.

Isabel Arches is a freelance makeup artist who has had experience in weddings, debuts, events, fashion editorials, and commercial/print.

Creativity has always been in Isabel's blood. Drawing life-like portraits since her elementary years, she uses her background in the arts to improve her craft. She draws inspiration from her clients--their personality, their inner beauty--and interprets this in the best way she can.

Visit Isabel's online portfolio at http://www.isabelarches.com

Read her blog at http://www.isabelarches.com/isabels-thoughts.html

ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO USE A BRUSH WITH LIQUID MAKEUP?

like this one?
http://www.clinique.com/products/CATEGORY4900/Makeup/Foundations/index.tmpl
cause i use a sponge?
but I want a flawless look, do I use a brush?

The sponges waste a LOT of product. I would rather use a brush. Most professionals use a brush. It will last forever if you take care of it. Be sure to clean it after every use with an antibacterial brush cleaner spray. And, once a week under running water with a very gentle baby shampoo. To get a flawless look, apply with the brush in a 'stippling' (like a tapping) motion, NOT a sweeping, wall-painting motion. Good luck.

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